Ian's cousin Charmie, her husband, Julien and their two children came on Friday for the week-end. It was looking good for a while with clear blue skies welcoming them to Vallee d'Ossau all the morning and then the afternoon skies clouded. They were busting for a good trek on the mountains with Hugo keen to play Hide and Seek in the clouds. His wish was fulfilled as the mountains offer a constant changing pattern of mists, clouds, patches of warm sun, all in rapid succession. (Ian is studying French, also, via the weather report. He considers it very poetic.) After lunch of Pyreneen brebis (sheep) fromage, salade et pain avec un verre du vin rouge in the sunshine overlooking mountains shining with their remaining snow, we enjoyed exploring up a rocky stream bed overhung with thick, vivid green Beech trees and some tall, beautiful conifers. Lichens and mosses clothed the branches, tree trunks and rocks. We climbed steeply, hoping we would break out into a high mountain field from which we may look out. The trek for that was longer than time permitted so apart from the leafy forest floor opening out from the top of the stream bed and a small clearing the boys discovered with a cave or two, we had to return to meet with an extremely English Australian we first met in Pau. This man has a delightful story of how he came by the house he lives in overlooking the valley. It is for another day. Suffice to say, Ian, Ashur and I had a most relaxing evening the previous night sipping French wine by his fire in "the library", marvelling at his impressive book collection.
A wonderful noisey night together with the walkers, the bikies and the bycycle riders at the auberge. The easy, friendly atmosphere is uncomplicated by any "precious" menu. In my opinion, it is best to go for the traditional thick soupy stew of harricot beans and a little duck for interest and flavour. The two brothers who run the auberge are young and avid lovers of fishing in the local streams for trout and skiing when they can. They cater without any visible stress and keep things tres facile. I am going to try to learn from this! (Perhaps those menus created for the week-end workshops are a little more complicated than they need to be!)
Saturday morning -- wet with rain -- how else does a place like this stay so green?! We swapped stories before Charmie's delicious carrot and potato soup, warmed with ginger. The plan was a mountain hike so we headed out on a goat track that led us high up the mountain overlooking Larens. We climbed up through the cloud in our cars until the passengers collectively and individually decided it was time to walk. The kids were out in a flash, hiking up the steep, grassy slope way beyond hearing or any adult fun squashing behaviour. Distant bells floated out into the mountain air, there was a mob of cattle grazing high up above us. The cloud below us broke up and moved away revealing a breathtaking view through air clear as crystal after the rain. We hiked on along the track marvelling at vistas of windswept oaks, fresh rushing waterfalls streaming down steep slopes and the valley below. As the afternoon progressed, misty clouds came in once more, swiftly swirling into the mouth of the valley and upwards to envelop us. The cows were coming down the mountainside, mellow bells clanging like a melody as they moved. As they passed above us, cloud swept around us, obscuring them from sight. It was time for Hide and Seek in the clouds!
Sunday, we are off on a drive to St Jean de Luz, by the ocean, to have lunch with some French people we have been fortunate to meet. Afterwards the children run on the beach, the water is cold and clothes are soon wet! We promenade above the beach and Cattarin graciously helps us with our French as she shows us the old parts of St Jean de Luz. Ian works very hard with his communication with Gerard who vows that his head is too full now that it cannot take in English as well!
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